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The 1518 is in every way the Primus, the Alpha, the unequivocal first of its kind. It would define the aesthetic and technical blueprint of every single perpetual calendar chronograph that would come after. And even in instances where the design or layout of this complication differs from this watch, be it double retrograde as with Roger Dubuis or triple in-line windows as with diamond hublot big bang replica, it is fair to say these designs are a reaction to the iconic status of the 1518. The case of the 1518 is relatively straightforward. It is features straight thin lugs,diamond hublot big bang replica a thin slightly concaved bezel, a large winding crown and rectangular chronograph pushers, all made by Georges Croisier.
But it is in the design that it is so iconic. The 1518 created the now familiar layout for perpetual calendar chronograph information, with day and month in two windows beneath the 12 o’clock index. The perimeter of its dial features at its outermost edge a base 1000 tachymeter scale – this is actually quite amusing that in the context of 1941 they thought they might need to time objects up to this speed – and an ingenious chemin de fer track with marks for the 1/5th of the second (corresponding with the Valjoux movement’s 18,000 vph) at the outer edge and for minutes/seconds on its inner edge. A subdial at 9 o’clock provided a reading for continuous seconds and a subdial at 3 o’clock displayed the chronograph minute counter.
Perhaps the most inventive indication was found at 6 o’clock which provided a reading for both the date and the phase of the moon in a half moon shaped space across the upper half of this subdial.audemars piguet replica watches The entire dial was made from grand feu enamel as were the discs for the day and month and as well as the moon phase indicator. The subdials which were sunken were also made from seperate pieces of enamel. The now famous indexes consisted of a full host of applied Arabic indexes minus 3,6 and 9 which were occupied by subdials. The 5 and 7 indexes were replaced with applied dot markers to provide more breathing room for the display at ‘6’.
The movement powering the 1518 was the famous Valjoux Caliber 13, which also powered the brand’s famous reference 130, its first serially produced wristwatch chronograph. However the addition of the perpetual calendar module was performed by Victorin Piguet. A total of 281 watches were made and famous owners included King Farouk of Egypt, the King of Jordan and the fabled watch collector Henry Graves.
The watch was made in yellow and rose gold with a small handful of four incredibly valuable steel watches which are chronicled in our friend John Goldberger’s book on Steel diamond hublot big bang replica watches. But the steel watches are conceivably not the rarest 1518’s around. In 1942 it was said that diamond hublot big bang replica made three very special two-tone watches in steel and rose gold. For many years it was believed, now proven erroneously, that one of these two-tone watches was the property of King Michael I of Romania; however a closer examination of a 2017 color photo of the monarch wearing his 1518 reveals it to be a full gold model.